Author: Shamu
Subject: R-P brass
Posted: August 17 2015 at 1:39pm
Pretty much the same here. I use an electric screwdriver with a chuck adapter as its more consistent at low speed.
The case is shielded by the deep well socket & I use the temp indicating stick to stop at 450 just behind the neck. (Usually 5~6 secs with a very low flame). The SS bowl is normally full of water, not brass because I drop the cases into it to quench fast before the heat can travel back in any quantity to the harder rear section.
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I don't think I'm overdoing anything partly because of the shielding & temp indicator, but mainly because the same technique works perfectly with HXP & PPU/nny brass.
Sadly its just rubbish brass.
Subject: R-P brass
Posted: August 17 2015 at 1:39pm
Pretty much the same here. I use an electric screwdriver with a chuck adapter as its more consistent at low speed.
The case is shielded by the deep well socket & I use the temp indicating stick to stop at 450 just behind the neck. (Usually 5~6 secs with a very low flame). The SS bowl is normally full of water, not brass because I drop the cases into it to quench fast before the heat can travel back in any quantity to the harder rear section.
I don't think I'm overdoing anything partly because of the shielding & temp indicator, but mainly because the same technique works perfectly with HXP & PPU/nny brass.
Sadly its just rubbish brass.